When To Prune Shrubs And Small Trees

When pruning small trees and shrubs the first place you want to start is with any dead, diseased and broken branches. Any suckers that grow from the roots or the base of the trunk need to be removed. Water sprouts that shoot from scaffold branches. Branches that rub or any limbs that compete with the leader. The purpose for removing these areas is to promote the overall health of the plant and focus the plants energy back into new growth.

Deciduous Shrubs

- never prune in early winter, wait until plant is dormant as it won't have time to harden off

- shrubs that flower on new growth should be pruned while dormant in late winter/early spring

- shrubs that flower on old growth should be pruned immediately after flowering

- rejuvenation pruning or heavy cutting back should be completed in mid March to mid April before bud break, will reduce flower display for that season but restores vigour

- pruning can still be done after advised dates for shaping purposes

Evergreen Shrubs

- best time to prune yew, hemlock, juniper, boxwood, arborvitae is late March to late April before new growth but will recover if done any time before mid to late June

- light, regular pruning is better for overall shape and size

- do not prune after August as it won't harden off before winter

- azalea, rhododendron can be pruned every 2 years after blossoms fade

Small Deciduous Trees

- best time to prune is late winter to early spring before leaf out March-April

- avoid pruning oaks from April to July, sap attracts beetles carrying oak wilt fungus

- do not prune in fall as leaves are dropping

- never remove more than 20% of the crown

Small Evergreen Trees

- spruce, pine, fir should be pruned in late spring to no later than June 15 to prevent bleeding

- for pine the best time for this is in June when new growth is in candle stage

- prune cedar hedges up until mid July but not after to prevent winter damage

- light, regular pruning is better for overall shape and size for hedges

Pruning schedule

early spring just before bud break:

- some roses and summer blooming shrubs

- hydrangea (peegee, Annabelle), rose of Sharon, some spirea varieties, elderberry, butterfly bush, dogwood(red osier), russian sage, privet, potentilla, false spirea, smokebush and more

- shape conifers such as juniper, yew, cypress and arborvitae

- best time to rejuvenate deciduous and conifer shrubs that are overgrown

- avoid pruning maples, elm, birch due to bleeding

- best not to prune during bud break

Spring and early summer:

- remove sucker and sprouts from base of tree, trunk and scaffold branches

- prune and head back summer flowering shrubs after bloom, forsythia, weigela, bridal wreath spirea, cotoneaster, azaleas, rhododendrons, witch hazel, viburnum, purple leaf sandcherry, lilac, ninebark, barberry, euonymus, honeysuckle, serviceberry, mockorange, willow and more

- prune conifer hedges and shrubs to maintain shape

Summer/late summer:

- thin out fruit trees to allow airflow through crown

- thin out any rubbing, touching or crossed branches from ornamental trees

- touch up conifers to maintain size and shape

Late summer/early fall:

- avoid pruning to prevent new growth that won't harden off in time for winter

- prune only dead, damaged and diseased wood

Late fall/early winter:

- after hard frost prune back ivys, virginia creeper, trumpet vine, boston and english ivy

- cut back perennials and ornamental grasses

Winter: (dec/jan/feb)